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Datum: 5-07-2016    Muros (Enseada de Bornalle)
 Friday, 01-07-2016
The weather doesn’t look too good, cloudy and chilly, so it’s time for slacks. The minute we sail out of the harbour, the ocean waves get bigger. In order to not get sick of the yawing of the boat, we set the main sail. Since there is hardly any wind, we plan a day on the engine. We sail past the best known and feared cape of the Spanish Atlantic Coast, Cabo Finisterre.

A little history lesson:
The name Finisterre derives from the Latin Finis Terrae, which means end of the world. According to tradition the Romans gave the cape this name, because they thought that the western world would end at this peninsula.
The Cabo (cape) is the southern border of the Costa de Morte (Coast of Death), so called because it is one of the most dangerous and treacherous coasts in the world; many a ship has perished here. The Cabo is at the end of a small peninsula with a length of 3 km. On the cape is a lighthouse and a building that is used as a hotel-restaurant nowadays. The lighthouse dates from 1853, is 13 metres in height and has a range of more than 30 sea miles.
There is very little to no wind and through the clouds we can only see a little piece of the bottom of the rock and we are not impressed…. But when we are a few miles up ahead, the clouds pull away, it gets sunnier and when we look back, we see the Cabo in its full splendour! And we have to review our judgement, it is imposing! Now the sun is out, we also see some dolphins. Because we have a good visibility now and little wind, we sail close past the Bajo de los Meixidos and Los Bruyos, a group of rocks that can only be seen at low tide. As soon as we come near the Ria de Muros, the wind suddenly rises. We sail, engine switched off, into the Ria on the main sail. The wind rises that much, that we sail to the harbour entrance with considerable momentum. Again, here are those mussel beds, which we leave on our starboard side. We try to berth close to the town in the bay, but the wind is too strong and the anchor doesn’t get a grip. We give up after two attempts and sail in between the coast and the mussel beds to a smaller, more quiet bay, Enseada de Bornalle. This is a green bay with two small beaches and there we throw the anchor. Despite the wind, we lay fixed after the first attempt. We are the only boat in this bay, nice and quiet. Of course we keep track if the anchor moves in any way and we set the anchor watch that will warn us if the anchor changes position. Now, we thought we had found a quiet spot, until we suddenly hear music at the beginning of the evening, coming from ashore. We hear a jumble of all sorts of music until the wee small hours of the morning (05:00). Spain is known for its abundance of “fiestas”; every village, town or region has its own feasts and apparently we are ‘in luck’. Around midnight we hear loud popping from the shore and see that there are fireworks. The following days there is much more music and fireworks.

The next day we go ashore by dinghy, about 3,5 km. It seems like a friendly town, but rather touristic and it shows in the restaurant-prices. We bought a so called Safire BBQ before we left and we want to have a try-out today. This barbecue is equipped with a locked round lid and stays cold at the bottom, so you can use it safely in the cockpit. We buy supplies for the next few days and some meat for the barbecue. In the meat department we see a couple of gigantic limbs or legs and in sign language we ask the lady behind the counter what it is. On which she answers with a sort of turkey-goggling-sound, so the three of us burst out in bouts of laughter. ‘Armed’ with enough supplies we stroll through the town, where we have lunch in a small square. Because it is getting near high tide, we want to be back at the dinghy in time, so we decide to come back later to the town to have a better look. We see the “Bojangles” anchored in the bay at Muros and sail alongside. They leave tomorrow for the next Ria. Because the wind has risen notably, the anchor has moved and we decide to try again. At the moment we have a plow anchor and we are thinking of buying a Rocna Anchor with a 100 metres of chain. But for now we have a different solution: after we have lowered the anchor with about 10 metres of chain, we attach our second (identical) anchor with a rope to the chain and lower the next 40 metres. We hope to get more grip this way. And this turns out to be very clever of us, we hardly move anymore. For the time being we will do it this way. The wind increases more and more and even hits 36,5 knots. (in layman’s terms: force 9) and we can speak of a stormy wind. It is true that they are in gales, so it sometimes dies down. We are the only boat in this bay and we think it safer to stay on board and not go back to the town or the music on the beach. Every now and then a boat comes in and berths, but as soon as the evening falls, they disappear into the harbour, because of the wind.
On our last day in the bay the wind is blowing less strong. In the morning we see small fishing boats around us, casting out their nets and we see a diver, but what he is looking for, stays a mystery to us. In the afternoon we (=Fred) row the dinghy to a small idyllic beach, which alas! we have to share with another young couple. Enjoying the sun and now and then a dip in the ice-cold water to cool off, what more do we want?
On rowing back to the boat - which isn’t easy because the wind has picked up – a piece breaks off at the rowlock of the oar, on which we almost miss the boat… A little paddling effort of the both of us and we are there. The wind is less, but considerable,  fortunately we are well fixed to the anchor. We prepare for our departure tomorrow to the next bay.
10-07-2016, reactie van Enrique
hallo Ferd en Carolin zoo te leezen gaat ales goed met juli uit kijken na costa da morte ik atje al gezegd mooi al di berigten groetjes Enrique en fel plezier
10-07-2016, reactie van Aad
'dat we helaas moeten delen met een ander jong stel' bedoel je nou een ander stel, of dat het andere stel ook jong is? :-):-):-)
10-07-2016, reactie van Caroline
Aad, we voelen ons met de dag jonger worden!
Wat de zee, zon en vrijheid al niet met je kan doen!
19-07-2016, reactie van Ludmilla a.k.a. Mila ;-)
Hè hè, ik ben weer een beetje bijgelezen. Als je in dit tempo blijft schrijven, ben ik voor de rest van mijn leven onder de pannen qua vertalen. pfffff...hihi
Maar allemaal hartstikke leuk om te lezen. Ik doe nu elke dag één vertaling van de meest recente blogs en ga dan later terug naar de 'oude' blogs.
Liefs en knuffels
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